Three Weave Structures From One Threading

Almost two years ago I went to Whidby Island to attend a workshop by Kathrin Weber of Blazing Shuttles.  It was probably the most influential thing to happen to my weaving ever.  I learned to let go at that workshop.  I learned a lot of other things and met some FANTASTIC weavers, but I really learned to just let go and enjoy weaving and color.  I’ve always been a pretty plain vanilla girl.  Kathrin’s personality is as colorful as her dye work and you can’t help but have a great time.  If you have the opportunity to attend one of her workshops, do it!  You will learn how to use her hand dyed warps to get the most out of them.  Along with that comes lots of great tricks/tips that you can put to traditional warps as well.  The picture on the right is my workshop project.  You can read more about it here.  On the last day we did a dyeing workshop.  So. Much. Fun.   I’ve been dyeing wool fiber and yarn for years, but dyeing cellulose fiber warps is a whole different animal.  I wouldn’t say it’s harder, just different.  Enter today’s post….

In the last post I showed you the hand dyed warps that I was going to tie on to a towel warp I have on the Glimakra Standard.  I’ve woven one of the warps already in Deep Teal and have started the 2nd in Black.  Let me tell you that when I dyed these I thought they were a flop and I wasn’t happen with them.  I overdyed them with blue and I’d say they’re not too shabby!

Twill towels

In other hand dyed news, I had a twill warp on a LeClerc Medico that I sold back in Aprilish.  The warp had been on the loom since the previous April.  Are you seeing why I decided to sell it and my Mighty Wolf.  Neither were getting much action.  I LOVE my countermarch and the cherry BW was my 50th birthday gift, so she’s not going anywhere.  But I digress… the warp on the Medico…. I directly wound it from the Medico to the back beam of my Baby Wolf and that’s where it sat and waited all this time.  A couple of months before that warp I’d done a hand dyed warp in Turned Taquete and Block Twill.  There’s been a lot of talk on the Blazing Shuttle Facebook page about also adding Repp to that mix.  I’ve done Block Twill and Turned Taquete on the same warp before and you can see that project here, but I’d never tried Repp on the same warp.

 I threaded the warp on the BW in Blocked Twill using the stripes as a guide as to where to change my blocks.  I will add that if I’d know this was what I was going to do, I would have added more layers of color so there would be more changes, but it is what it is and I’m just playing around and having some fun.

This is the Repp  I wove yesterday.  I realize the epi is not as close as it usually is in Repp, but again, I’m just having fun here and playing around.  I actually like the fabric a lot.  It’ll sew up into a great bag, storage container or bench pad. Next I retied the treadles to weave Turned Taquete which is one of my faves:

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Last, but not least, Blocked Twill

More Bang for My Weaving Buck

Twill towels

My weaving mojo is back after my return from Vävstuga.  Last week I wound on a warp for some towels that I’ve wanted to do for a while now.  I used math (if you only knew how hard that is for me….) to figure out what I had left from the Dorothy Towels and how to use up most of it on this new project.  To play it safe I wound a 5.5 yard warp (short for me.  I like to do at least ten yards).  

I have “three” towels woven.  This was to be a “cleaning out” project.  I used some cottolin I had leftover from another project, but it wasn’t enough for a whole towel, so that one will end up yardage.  I got smart and weighed the cone before and after on the next towel (blue cottolin), so I’d have a better idea of how much weft I’d need for each towel.  I wove one more after that in a deep cranberry (you can see that one still on the loom under the warps in the picture below).  I still had one, probably two, towels worth of warp on the beam, but wanted to use it as a dummy warp while it was still secured around the back beam.  If I were to weave up to the end of the warp, because it’s looped over the back rod, it wouldn’t have been secure to tie each end without them slipping around.  I know I can finish weaving the remaining warp after I tie on to it and weave another project.  This way I get more bang for my threading/sleying buck and I know there are no errors.

Shawl warps

Something I haven’t blogged about is a trip to Whidbey Island for a workshop with Kathrin Weber (Blazing Shuttles).  She is a Yarn  whisperer extraordinaire.  If you ever have a chance to take her workshop, jump on it.  If not, at least check out her dyed warps because they are SO much fun to weave.  Every advance of the warp is like turning a page in a great novel that you don’t want to put down.  At that workshop I learned to let go and play with color, not only in the actual weaving, but in dyeing as well.  I’ve dyed plenty of wool in my time, but dyeing cellulose fibers and warps was new to me.  I’ll write more about that later.

Back to the project at hand.  I had some 8/2 rayon warps that I dyed several months ago.  I took three of them and tied them on to the twill towel warp still on the loom since it’s the same epi.  Ideally, I would rather have had a narrower warp, but now I’ll have wraps instead of scarves, so it works.   Because of Kathrin’s workshop, I have no fear when I see a picture like this:

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because I know that a miracle is about to happen with one little snap.  Suddenly I start singing, “Oh, oh, oh … it’s magic…. doncha’ know….”

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The above shot is after the first warp was tied on.  I did the other two, attached my trusty trapeze and wound on all seven yards with very little effort in under a half an hour… alone.  I’m about 2/3rds finished with the first wrap.  I used an 8/2 deep teal rayon.  Not sure what color I’ll use next, but I’ll keep you posted.

Teal shawl

Vävstuga Weaving School

For years I wanted to go to Vävstuga Weaving School in Shelburne Falls, Mass.  Though I’ve been weaving for quite a while and have been using Becky’s “flippy book” and video since I bought my Glimakra Standard a year and a half ago, I still learned quite a few good tips and it’s always fun to hang out with other weavers, both new to the craft and experienced.  

Where to begin?  Located on the Deerfield River next to the Bridge of Flowers, the setting alone is beautiful.  A weaving friend of mine did the class with me so we shared the double room in the dorm where we were surrounded by gorgeous handwovens. 

The whole crew was awesome.  From dealing with Bettie in the office during “registration” to being greeted by Tonya the first evening.  I have to say, I’m a food-driven girl and Kim’s meals were something to look forward to.  I was salivating an hour after a meal from the smells coming from the kitchen.  I will be waiting very impatiently for the cookbook to come out and will buy it immediately.  The salads were ridiculous.  My favorite was the pear… I think….  Honestly, I’d go back just for the food alone.  

Becky had a great way of mixing weaving with drafting classes to get us away from the looms for a bit each morning and afternoon.  As long as I’ve been weaving, I’ve always relied on computer programs or magazine and book drafts to weave.  I know have a tiny understanding, but it’s still a little foggy in my head.  We had a couple of ladies in our class that had never woven on a floor loom before. The rest of us were SO impressed with their quick grasp of craft.  I would say that is a great sign of how great of a teacher Becky is.

Probably my favorite part of the whole week was dinner at Becky’s house one night.  Shocker.  It involves food.  It was amazing.  What a beautiful spot she lives on.  Reminds me of my grandfather’s place in New Hampshire.  The dining room was fully lit with candles when we arrived and we were treated to a Swedish-style meal at Becky’s table.  After dinner was a tour of the house with all of it’s looms available for classes and the Immersion Program (oh, but that I could do THAT!).  I fell in love with the smålandsväv fabrics and  would definitely love to return for a class in that structure.  The big treat to end the evening was a little concert in the living room.  Thank you to my class-mate, Liz for the permission to use this photo!!

If you can do it, go.  If you are an experienced weaver, you’ll still learn a few things, if you are a new weaver, you will come out far ahead of those of us that were mostly self-taught.  I leave you with random pictures from the week.

Guat’s up?!

A new weaver in San Antonio Palopó

We are back from an AMAZING trip to Guatemala.  We’ve been back a week tomorrow and already miss it so much.  If you’re looking for a fairly inexpensive vacation and are adventurous, GO!   We are actually talking about moving there at least six months out of the year, we loved it that much.  Let me say it’s not for everyone.  It’s a developing country, so there is a lot of poverty, it’s dirty and noisy.  The countryside is SO beautiful and the people, well… they are the kindest most agreeable people.  We loved the people of Guatemala.  We didn’t come across one angry person.

We stayed six nights in Panajachel on Lake Atitlan.  We went during the beginning of rainy season and I guess it there was more rain that usual.  We were also there for the 7.0 earthquake.  That woke us up quickly in the middle of the night.  The epicenter was only 100 miles northwest of us, but there was little damage (none where we were) and I think there was a few injuries, but no deaths.  Miracles.

We loved San Juan la Laguna.  This is where they have several weaving cooperatives.  The weavers there grow, spin and dye (with natural dyes) all their own cotton.  I brought some back and it is lovely stuff.

Anniversary lunch at Cafe El Artesano in San Juan La Laguna

I took a backstrap weaving workshop with Maya Traditions.  My teacher, Zenaida, was very pleasant.   With my minimal Spanish, we made it through the morning just fine until my husband (who’s fluent) got there.  She reported to him that my Spanish wasn’t bad.  lol  She’s from the village of San Antonio Palopó.  It’s about a 25 minute pick up truck (Guatemalan taxi) ride from Panajachel.  We went to visit her the next day.  They are wonderful weavers and all wear the same blue woven fabric.  I was dressed up in it and put at a loom to weave a bit.  So much fun.   They also make some gorgeous pottery in that village.  We just brought back a few pieces as we were afraid of weight and breakage in our luggage.  Probably a good thing for our bank account that Guatemala doesn’t have a postal system.

I’d like to add in here, if you are interested in learning backstrap weaving, it couldn’t be cheaper or easier and it’s awesome for travel.  I’ve been following Laverne Waddington for years. She now has a great DVD out and a couple of books.  

To be closer to Guatemala City for our return flight home we splurged and stayed at The El Convento Hotel in Antigua.  Oh. My. Word.  The most beautiful hotel we’ve ever stayed in.  It’s built in an old Convent and just gorgeous. It was a splurge, but we would never have been able to afford this place in the States.  We paid about $350 for the night and that was with roses, dinner and breakfast.  It was our 25th Anniversary celebration so we did the package deal and the meals were out of this world.  

Band on the Run

I love to take band weaving with me when we travel.  I have several inkle looms of various sizes, but I also weave them backstrap style.  It never ceases to amaze me all that you can do with some string and a little free time.   Here are some pictures of bands I’ve woven over time.There are more in my projects on Ravelry and there are MANY more in a basket just waiting for something to be done with them.  Thinking about adding them to the shop.

In other news, my youngest, Joseph, graduated from High School on Sunday.  Bittersweet.  I’m excited for what the future holds for him, but it’s really gonna be tough seeing him in the rear view mirror when we leave him at college in August.

Finish Line

Edited to add on Nov 2019 – Funny how we evolve. I don’t hem like this anymore. I wrote a new post on how I do it now. You can find that here: https://jeanelizabethstudio.com/finish-line-2/ Try them all and see what works for you.

Oddly enough, I used the same title even though I didn’t remember I’d written a post on hemming already. Who knows, I may find another way and do a Finish Line 3 in a couple of years. I thought I’d leave this one up because someone might prefer it to the new way I do it.

Thought I’d share a trick that is new to my weaving arsenal.  Fusible thread (FT) is my new best friend.  On these towels, I threw three shots of FT at the beginning and end of each towel with two shots of a contrasting thread to give me a cutting line.  This is the first time I’ve tried this and I love it.  I took the whole length of toweling to the ironing board and ironed each of the FT areas.  Make sure to use a pressing sheet on top of and under the FT or you’ll get it all over your iron or ironing surface.  I threw caution to the wind, cut between the lines and threw the towels in the wash.  A couple of them lost a few picks of weaving where I hadn’t ironed quite enough, but it worked out really well. 

This saved me SO much time as I didn’t have to haul the serger out and stitch down each end.  Obviously, it saved serger thread as well.  It also saved the extra bulk that the serger stitching puts in the hems, which already always feel too thick for me.  I’ve tried the trick of weaving with a finer thread in the hems, but I don’t like how it draws in the selvedges.  Speaking of hems…  I usually weave them in the same structure as the rest of the towel.  If you weave a plain weave hem on a twill towel, you are going to get the little flared out ends when you sew up the hem.  When doing twill sometimes I do a different twill pattern for the hem, sometimes I do the same as the rest of the towel.  Just depends on my mood when I sit down to weave.

Back to the FT.  A nice surprise was the fact that when I pressed the hems up to get them prepared for stitching, the FT held the hem!  I didn’t really need the clips, but I like them as a back up.  Next time I’ll use four shots of FT at each end to help facilitate this added little bonus.  

So here are the eight towels I cut off.  I’ve already been weaving on what I retied on and will most likely get five more towels.  One will be short because I was trying out different white wefts and ran out.  Anxious to feel the difference in the hand of the fabric from using the different manufacturer’s 8/2 cotton.

A couple of other things… After washing, I always take the towels out of the dryer before they are fully dry.  The dampness helps in the pressing.  When I finish hemming, I wash them again and it usually is enough to get the creases from the first wash.

Tying one on

So when last we left the loom I kind of left you hanging.  After finishing up the towels that I cut off I lashed the warp back on to the apron bar and continued to weave.   The great thing about this method is there are no knots to worry about as the cloth starts to go over the cloth beam.  So, onward with the weaving.  I should get at least five more towels out of this warp, but we’ll see.  The towels I took off were a huge 27″ x 16.5″ after washing, hemming and pressing.  I like a little smaller towel, so I might take a couple of inches off while weaving.

 

To Cut Off Or Not To Cut Off…

That is the question.  There have been many times when I’m in the middle of a multiple piece project…. like towels… where I need to cut some off.  I tend to wind very long warps because I hate tying up on my Glimakra Standard.  I have the Baby Wolf for shorter warps and she’s SO much easier to set up, but she doesn’t weave quite like the her Swedish sister.  Give and take.  Pros and cons.

Anyway.  When you put very long warps on, you get a spongy and sometimes too large cloth roll on the front beam as you weave.  I add warping sticks once in a while as go to add firmness to the cloth roll and that gets me a little farther.  There are times though when it just has to be done.  I have a custom order for six towels.  I really messed up my back when I dressed the loom with this project and couldn’t do anything for about three weeks.  It really put me behind.  Some of the towels are for Mother’s Day, so I cut them off this morning.  They are washing now so that I can hem, iron and get them in the mail giving my friend time to send them out.


I weave an inch or two in plain weave, depending on how brave I’m feeling and the thread I’m using.  If I’m using a slippery thread, I’d weave 2″, if it’s, say 8/2 unmercerized cotton or thicker, I’d just do an inch.  Then I insert a firm dowel and then weave another inch or two of plain weave.  If you click on the photos, you can see them larger.  You can see here that I also wove some twill.  That’s because the towels are in twill and nothing will spread out a twill project faster than plain weave.  I wove the twill to draw it back in.  Note the two stings on each side holding the dowel to the beater and to  the front beam.  These are my 3rd, 4th and 5th hands just to hold thing stable when I start cutting.

I will tie that rod to the cloth rod and continue to weave.  It’s nice because there’s no knots, you don’t have to tension things out again and it wastes very little thread.

Another thing I’ll share with you are my homemade temples.  The traditional kind and I do not get along.  I always end up getting poked and bleeding or tearing up my selvedges.  These tarp clips work great.  I was all thumbs when I first started to use them, but once I got used to them I can move them up the selvages in no time flat.  Much faster than the traditional ones and they do the job.  I used scrap handwoven (yes, there is such a thing) and made little pouches that I filled with 2 oz of buckshot.  I used texsolv to tie it all together and command strip hooks to hold them to the sides of my looms.  I did the exact same with my Baby Wolf.

I lied.


Ok… I didn’t exactly lie when I said I haven’t done much knitting, I just forgot

about a pretty big project I did last Fall.  The daughter of long time friends that we were stationed with in Germany got married on New Year’s Eve.  She asked if I would make a wrap or shawl.  
Many pictures and Facebook messages back and forth later, we decided on the Love in a Mist Shawl.  I knit it with Kidsilk Haze in Cream and crystal beads with silver linings.  I also paired up a snowflake broach with it because the Bride wanted a very Wintery theme.  You can find all the info on my Ravelry project page.

Funnily enough, her little sister starred here on the blog many, many moons ago back in 2004 when she modeled my Chick Knits Bucket Felted Bucket Hat.  Both girls are lovely young ladies now.  That’s the great thing about being Military.  You stay close to those that have become your family.

Have a great weekend everyone!

It’s been a week…

Not in that it’s been a week since I last posted.  It’s been that kind of week…  My father-in-law died suddenly of a heart attack a year ago.  You might remember my husband’s family is filled with Texas A&M Aggies.  If you haven’t gone to that school or love someone who did, you won’t get it.  It’s an Aggie thing.  It is a deep love for their Alma Mater.  One of their many traditions is Aggie Muster where they honor all the Ags that passed away during the previous year.  My father-in-law was one of the honorees at College Station this year.  With the ceremony looming, today is his birthday and the anniversary of his death is on Tuesday…. well… it’s been a week.

He was an amazing man.  The line at his wake went outside and around the building where people stood for hours in the Laredo heat to wish us all their condolences and share their stories of him with us.  For four hours we stood and shook hands, hugged, cried and laughed as we listened to story after story about how he touched someone’s life. He was stubborn… oh was he stubborn… lol, but he’d do anything for anyone and he was well known to be fair and honest.  He was always watching out for those less fortunate than himself and he was a big believer in second chances.  I put together his display for Aggie Muster, so it was a big trip down memory lane.  Pretty therapeutic actually.  I was able to watch the live stream of the ceremony and it was beautiful.  I’m sure my father-in-law was smiling down at his beloved family and Texas A&M.   It was a good thing, I think, for my family to share their love of my father-in-law with people that visited the reflections display.  My favorite picture of the day was one my husband took of three Cadets looking at the display.  I couldn’t help but think how much my father-in-law would have loved to have met them and they would have gotten such a kick out of talking to him about his old Corps days.

In the fiber front I’ve been spinning.  A lot.  Like almost every day.  I’ve been playing around with different fiber preps.  My new favorite is taking perfectly good combed top and making it into fauxlags (not really rolags because they aren’t carded).  I just pull off a piece of the top, put it on to one of the hand cards as if I was going to card it, but I take two dowels, one on top, one underneath and roll it off.  I have to tell you, it’s a DREAM to spin.  It is so fun and gratifying to pull that fauxlag out of it’s tube form into a roving.  It’s like watching a cheese pull on lasagna.  Besides using perfectly good top, this method is great for top that you’ve dyed and, ehem, got a little webby….  😉  for these I did card a little, so I guess technically they are real rolags, not fauxlags.  You don’t even need to use a handcard to do this.  You could just spread the fiber out and roll it between the two dowels, but I think the handcard makes it easier to get it into a tight little roll.  After I roll it off the hand card, I squeeze my fingers around the fiber around the dowels and twist in the direction it was rolled.  It tightens everything up nicely.

I plan on weaving today.  Hoping my back will cooperate and I can enjoy getting several towels done on the Dorothy’s Dozen warp that I shared the other day.